Encyclopedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles

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Subject: History

Edited by: Gale Owen-Crocker, Elizabeth Coatsworth & Maria Hayward
The single volume Encyclopaedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles of the British Isles c. 450-1450 is a unique work that intends to bring together in 582 signed articles the latest research from across the range of disciplines which contribute to our knowledge of medieval dress and textiles.

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Dagging

(384 words)

Author(s): Gale R. Owen-Crocker
The practice of clipping the edges of textile into fancy shapes was extravagant, because it wasted cloth. It was made possible by the production of heavily fulledwoollen cloth which did not fray, and, arguably by the introduction of scissors and an increased sophistication in cutting and construction techniques. Dagging began in the 13th century, reaching its apogee in the extravagances of the 14th and early 15th centuries. Popular dagged shapes were simple points and scallops; more complex were oak leaf shapes. An international fashion for the wealthy, daggi…

Dalmatic

(328 words)

Author(s): Gale R. Owen-Crocker
Adopted for the Christian Church in the 4th century, and taking its name from a supposed origin in Dalmatia, the dalmatic was worn by the Pope and later by all bishops, under the chasuble or cope; especially (as an outer garment) by deacons assisting priests; and in the 12th and 13th centuries at least, by sovereigns at their coronations. Although the dalmatic was not one of the vestments assigned to a cleric at his ordination in Anglo-Saxon England (see ecclesiastical dress ante-1100), it was evidently in use already at that period: The Old English Regularis Concordia, compiled for Engli…

Damask

(338 words)

Author(s): Elizabeth Coatsworth
In modern terms, damask is a self-patterned weave with one warp and one weft in which the pattern is formed by a contrast of binding systems (i.e. weaves). It can be reversible, with the contrast produced by the use of the warp and weft faces of the same weave, usually satin. An unstratified but possibly 15th-century satin damask was discovered in excavations in London. In London also, dating from the first quarter of the 14th century, were found two fragments of a twill damask originating probably from China. Examples of this exotic weave have been found quite widesp…

Decorative techniques

(13 words)

Author(s): Elizabeth Coatsworth
See Appliqué; Bezant;Embroideries pre-1100; Opus anglicanum; Passementerie; Stitches. Elizabeth Coatsworth

Denizens

(21 words)

Author(s): Gale R. Owen-Crocker
Also spelled deniseins, denizeins, densyns etc;  merchants who were natives or citizens of England, as opposed to foreigners. Gale R. Owen-Crocker